Guidebook for Edinburgh
Food Scene
This lovely little artisan bakery makes the most deliciously soft, pillowy doughnuts with fillings like chocolate cardamom and passionfruit ricotta.
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Twelve Triangles
90 Brunswick StThis lovely little artisan bakery makes the most deliciously soft, pillowy doughnuts with fillings like chocolate cardamom and passionfruit ricotta.
This busy little bakery is a true Leith institution: I know Italians who travel from Falkirk to get their hands on the shop's cannolis.
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Sicilian Pastry Shop
14-16 Albert StThis busy little bakery is a true Leith institution: I know Italians who travel from Falkirk to get their hands on the shop's cannolis.
Vittoria has a great value lunch menu, and I'm always impressed by the range of ice cream flavours they have when it's time for dessert.
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Vittoria on the Walk
113 Brunswick StVittoria has a great value lunch menu, and I'm always impressed by the range of ice cream flavours they have when it's time for dessert.
This cosy little Turkish restaurant is a true gem, serving up delicious sharing platters and charcoal BBQ kebabs. They've got a rotating selection of tasty cold mezzes which you can select from the cabinet, and everything is made fresh.
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Pera
57 Elm RowThis cosy little Turkish restaurant is a true gem, serving up delicious sharing platters and charcoal BBQ kebabs. They've got a rotating selection of tasty cold mezzes which you can select from the cabinet, and everything is made fresh.
This taqueria is my go-to when I'm in Edinburgh for its creative fillings and fusion flavours like tempura avocado and Vietnamese pork belly.
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Bodega
62 Elm RowThis taqueria is my go-to when I'm in Edinburgh for its creative fillings and fusion flavours like tempura avocado and Vietnamese pork belly.
One of my favourite places to work from when I fancy getting out and about, Renroc is a cosy little cafe with a great food menu and tasty coffee. The downstairs area is great for working, and the staff are very accommodating towards remote workers. Good Wi-Fi, too.
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Café Renroc
91 Montgomery StOne of my favourite places to work from when I fancy getting out and about, Renroc is a cosy little cafe with a great food menu and tasty coffee. The downstairs area is great for working, and the staff are very accommodating towards remote workers. Good Wi-Fi, too.
Taste of Italy is always busy and if you manage to get a seat you'll immediately understand why. This place is very budget friendly, and despite the cheap price tag all of the food is fresh and super tasty. The pizzas are among the best I've had in Edinburgh, and I love their DeNiro burger. The house wine isn't half bad either: and comes by the carafe.
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Taste Of Italy
9 Baxter's PlTaste of Italy is always busy and if you manage to get a seat you'll immediately understand why. This place is very budget friendly, and despite the cheap price tag all of the food is fresh and super tasty. The pizzas are among the best I've had in Edinburgh, and I love their DeNiro burger. The house wine isn't half bad either: and comes by the carafe.
The Dogs is an Edinburgh institution and for good reason. This cosy restaurant has a small, seasonal menu focusing on British comfort food done properly. They've got an excellent wine list and their espresso martinis are to die for.
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the dogs
110 Hanover StThe Dogs is an Edinburgh institution and for good reason. This cosy restaurant has a small, seasonal menu focusing on British comfort food done properly. They've got an excellent wine list and their espresso martinis are to die for.
With its high ceilings and stained glass windows, the reimagined Victorian pub Nobles makes a dramatic setting for dinner. The food draws upon seasonal Scottish flavours. The atmosphere is pretty casual: you can happily linger over craft beer, wine and cocktails long after dinner is over.
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Nobles Café Bar & Restaurant
44A Constitution StWith its high ceilings and stained glass windows, the reimagined Victorian pub Nobles makes a dramatic setting for dinner. The food draws upon seasonal Scottish flavours. The atmosphere is pretty casual: you can happily linger over craft beer, wine and cocktails long after dinner is over.
If you're into street food, head to this Saturday market. There are lots of stalls selling everything from freshly grilled steak to vegan treats. There are also some great little pop-up bars so you can sip a whisky or wine while enjoying the live music.
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Рынок Питта
20 Pitt StIf you're into street food, head to this Saturday market. There are lots of stalls selling everything from freshly grilled steak to vegan treats. There are also some great little pop-up bars so you can sip a whisky or wine while enjoying the live music.
Locally sourced produce takes centre stage in this restaurant's excellent seven-course tasting menu. Seating is communal at a big long table, so you get the chance to meet new friends. Matched wine is available, as is weekend brunch: available all week during August.
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The Gardener's Cottage
1 London RoadLocally sourced produce takes centre stage in this restaurant's excellent seven-course tasting menu. Seating is communal at a big long table, so you get the chance to meet new friends. Matched wine is available, as is weekend brunch: available all week during August.
This food research hub has a tasting menu which uses local, seasonal ingredients in innovative ways. They often host guest chefs from top restaurants across the world. It's always worth checking out what's on. Dinner is served at a communal table so it's a great way to meet people.
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Edinburgh Food Studio
158 Dalkeith RdThis food research hub has a tasting menu which uses local, seasonal ingredients in innovative ways. They often host guest chefs from top restaurants across the world. It's always worth checking out what's on. Dinner is served at a communal table so it's a great way to meet people.
This artisan bakery is a true local favourite, perfect for picking up bits and pieces for a lazy weekend breakfast. Their handmade sourdough loaves are wonderful, and it's hard to resist the patisserie selection which is unbelievably Instagrammable. They also sell savoury snacks such as quiche and a range of salads.
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The Manna House Bakery & Patisserie
22-24 Easter RdThis artisan bakery is a true local favourite, perfect for picking up bits and pieces for a lazy weekend breakfast. Their handmade sourdough loaves are wonderful, and it's hard to resist the patisserie selection which is unbelievably Instagrammable. They also sell savoury snacks such as quiche and a range of salads.
This gem of a cafe serves up single-origin coffee as well as cakes and paninis. It has a friendly atmosphere, with good Wi-Fi and plenty of sockets if you fancy working on the go. They've also got board games, books and an in-house labrador: as a dog lover this is a big plus point for me!
Mo Beans Coffee Shop & Cafe
57 Easter RdThis gem of a cafe serves up single-origin coffee as well as cakes and paninis. It has a friendly atmosphere, with good Wi-Fi and plenty of sockets if you fancy working on the go. They've also got board games, books and an in-house labrador: as a dog lover this is a big plus point for me!
Drinks & Nightlife
Very trendy with quirky decor inside, JP's is the place to be of an Edinburgh evening. Try some of the Swedish delicacies or just settle in with a craft beer and enjoy the hipster vibe.
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Joseph Pearce
23 Elm RowVery trendy with quirky decor inside, JP's is the place to be of an Edinburgh evening. Try some of the Swedish delicacies or just settle in with a craft beer and enjoy the hipster vibe.
Smith & Gertrude know their stuff when it comes to wine, with an intriguing selection of lesser-known grapes. Their cheese and wine flights are highly enjoyable, and you can put together your own cheese and charcuterie board to enjoy with a glass (or bottle) of your choice.
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Smith & Gertrude
254 Hamilton PlSmith & Gertrude know their stuff when it comes to wine, with an intriguing selection of lesser-known grapes. Their cheese and wine flights are highly enjoyable, and you can put together your own cheese and charcuterie board to enjoy with a glass (or bottle) of your choice.
Tucked on a lane just off Broughton Street, this bar is a true hidden gem. I love it during the summer as it has a big beer garden.
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The Outhouse
12A Broughton St LnTucked on a lane just off Broughton Street, this bar is a true hidden gem. I love it during the summer as it has a big beer garden.
This excellent cocktail bar is hidden in plain sight, just above the shops of Princes Street. Perch in a plush armchair and enjoy the unrivalled view of the castle while sipping a carefully crafted cocktail.
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Juniper Edinburgh
20 Princes StThis excellent cocktail bar is hidden in plain sight, just above the shops of Princes Street. Perch in a plush armchair and enjoy the unrivalled view of the castle while sipping a carefully crafted cocktail.
Shopping
This Italian deli is legendary for its selection of premium olive oils, balsamic vinegar and Italian wine. The cheese counter is a thing of beauty too, with oozing gorgonzola and crumbly parmesan sitting side by side with fresh burrata. A must visit for any foodie.
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Valvona Crolla
19 Elm RowThis Italian deli is legendary for its selection of premium olive oils, balsamic vinegar and Italian wine. The cheese counter is a thing of beauty too, with oozing gorgonzola and crumbly parmesan sitting side by side with fresh burrata. A must visit for any foodie.
If you're looking for seasonal, organic veggies, Tattie Shaws is the place to go. This old-school greengrocers stocks plenty of local and artisan products. If you ring them in advance they'll put together a "veggie box" for you packed with seasonal items.
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Tattie Shaws
35 Elm RowIf you're looking for seasonal, organic veggies, Tattie Shaws is the place to go. This old-school greengrocers stocks plenty of local and artisan products. If you ring them in advance they'll put together a "veggie box" for you packed with seasonal items.
Grab an artisan coffee from the street vendors and browse the stalls at this Sunday farmer's market. As well as local veggies, meat and bread you'll also find hand-made trinkets and soap. There's also street food and live music.
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Рынок Стокбридж
Saunders StreetGrab an artisan coffee from the street vendors and browse the stalls at this Sunday farmer's market. As well as local veggies, meat and bread you'll also find hand-made trinkets and soap. There's also street food and live music.
Lesser-known than the Stockbridge Market, the Leith Market is a similar celebration of local street food, produce and crafts.
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Leith Market
Commercial StreetLesser-known than the Stockbridge Market, the Leith Market is a similar celebration of local street food, produce and crafts.
Joey D's equestrian-meets-punk aesthetic works its way into his clothing, accessories and homewares. Expect wine racks made from horse shoes, armchairs with antlers and leather bags inlaid with burlap coffee sacks. His range of stock is constantly changing as he comes up with new creations, and his customer service is second-to-none.
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Joey D
54 Broughton StJoey D's equestrian-meets-punk aesthetic works its way into his clothing, accessories and homewares. Expect wine racks made from horse shoes, armchairs with antlers and leather bags inlaid with burlap coffee sacks. His range of stock is constantly changing as he comes up with new creations, and his customer service is second-to-none.
If you're into art and want to support local Edinburgh artists, this cosy gallery is the place to go. As well as prints by the likes of Emily MacKenzie, Kate McLelland, and Sarah Kwan, they also sell jewellery and accessories by local artisans.
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The Red Door Gallery
42 Victoria StIf you're into art and want to support local Edinburgh artists, this cosy gallery is the place to go. As well as prints by the likes of Emily MacKenzie, Kate McLelland, and Sarah Kwan, they also sell jewellery and accessories by local artisans.
This local butcher is legendary for its locally sourced meat: especially it's creative sausages with unique flavours including beef & heather ale, whisky, hog & wild thyme, and Auld Reekie: a smokey sausage named for Edinburgh. Their haggis is good, too.
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Crombies of Edinburgh
97 Broughton StThis local butcher is legendary for its locally sourced meat: especially it's creative sausages with unique flavours including beef & heather ale, whisky, hog & wild thyme, and Auld Reekie: a smokey sausage named for Edinburgh. Their haggis is good, too.
This shop is packed with cute bits and bobs including local artworks, scented candles and gorgeous stationery. It's my go-to when I need to buy a gift for a special occasion.
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Curiouser & Curiouser
93 Broughton StThis shop is packed with cute bits and bobs including local artworks, scented candles and gorgeous stationery. It's my go-to when I need to buy a gift for a special occasion.
This small shop is a treasure trove of unique jewellery, homewares and artcards made by Scottish designers.
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Concrete Wardrobe
50A Broughton StThis small shop is a treasure trove of unique jewellery, homewares and artcards made by Scottish designers.
This basement wine shop is a treasure trove of interesting vinos, gins and beers. The staff really know their stuff and love to show off, so ask for recommendations. They often have great deals on champagne, too.
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Villeneuve Wines
49A Broughton StThis basement wine shop is a treasure trove of interesting vinos, gins and beers. The staff really know their stuff and love to show off, so ask for recommendations. They often have great deals on champagne, too.
Cornelius stocks a wide selection of carefully curated wines and beers, including a few house brews. The shop has a reputation as Scotland's leading beer specialist, with a range of speciality British, American and German beers: sometimes in tiny batches. Perfect for all your craft beer and real ale needs. The owner also writes a beer column for local foodie magazine Bite, and is always happy to chat to customers and offer recommendations.
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Cornelius Beer & Wine
18-20 Easter RdCornelius stocks a wide selection of carefully curated wines and beers, including a few house brews. The shop has a reputation as Scotland's leading beer specialist, with a range of speciality British, American and German beers: sometimes in tiny batches. Perfect for all your craft beer and real ale needs. The owner also writes a beer column for local foodie magazine Bite, and is always happy to chat to customers and offer recommendations.
This specialist cheese shop is renowned throughout Edinburgh, and provide cheese to some of the city's finest restaurants. If you're into cheese, it's a must-visit.
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IJ Mellis Cheesemongers
6 Bakers PlaceThis specialist cheese shop is renowned throughout Edinburgh, and provide cheese to some of the city's finest restaurants. If you're into cheese, it's a must-visit.
Essentials
Small Tesco with all the basics you need. It sells fresh fruit and veggies and also has a frozen food section. It's handy for picking up beer, wine and spirits but remember that you can't buy booze after 10pm in Scotland. It has some self service checkouts so you can check your own stuff. Remember to bring your own carrier bags or you'll be charged 5p for a disposable one.
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Tesco Express
4-6 Leith WalkSmall Tesco with all the basics you need. It sells fresh fruit and veggies and also has a frozen food section. It's handy for picking up beer, wine and spirits but remember that you can't buy booze after 10pm in Scotland. It has some self service checkouts so you can check your own stuff. Remember to bring your own carrier bags or you'll be charged 5p for a disposable one.
The Co-operative has a small but comprehensive range of fresh fruit and vegetables, and an interesting selection of bakery items like cheddar & jalapeno bread and Portuguese custard tarts (pasteis de nata).
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Co-op Food
114 Dalry RdThe Co-operative has a small but comprehensive range of fresh fruit and vegetables, and an interesting selection of bakery items like cheddar & jalapeno bread and Portuguese custard tarts (pasteis de nata).
Sainsbury's Local is handy if you're looking for a few bits and bobs to put together dinner. The range isn't as wide as in its larger supermarkets, but it does have all the basics you might be looking for.
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Sainsbury's Local
45 Bernard StSainsbury's Local is handy if you're looking for a few bits and bobs to put together dinner. The range isn't as wide as in its larger supermarkets, but it does have all the basics you might be looking for.
Large Tesco with a deli, butcher and fish counter. It has a large fruit and veg section, a big bakery and plenty of fresh, frozen and ambient products.
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Tesco Superstore
76 Duke StLarge Tesco with a deli, butcher and fish counter. It has a large fruit and veg section, a big bakery and plenty of fresh, frozen and ambient products.
As far as Lidl's go, this is a pretty posh version of the German discount chain. It has all the usual mad centre isle stuff, as well as Scottish meat and fish in the fridge section. You can often find good deals on interesting wines here: like 750ml bottles of Sauternes. Excellent range of fruit and vegetables, too.
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Lidl
Newhailes RoadAs far as Lidl's go, this is a pretty posh version of the German discount chain. It has all the usual mad centre isle stuff, as well as Scottish meat and fish in the fridge section. You can often find good deals on interesting wines here: like 750ml bottles of Sauternes. Excellent range of fruit and vegetables, too.
Large Sainsbury's with fish, butcher and deli counters as well as a small section dedicated to Tu clothing and homewares. This shop has everything you could ever possibly need.
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Sainsbury's
Unit 9-10 Moray Park TerraceLarge Sainsbury's with fish, butcher and deli counters as well as a small section dedicated to Tu clothing and homewares. This shop has everything you could ever possibly need.
Great local hairdresser. The owner, Neil, often brings his dog Raffa into the salon. The staff are friendly and always do an amazing job of my hair: ask for Stephen.
Neil Barton Hairdressing
28 Elm RowGreat local hairdresser. The owner, Neil, often brings his dog Raffa into the salon. The staff are friendly and always do an amazing job of my hair: ask for Stephen.
Handy little dry cleaner which doubles up as a DPD parcel shop, ideal if you want to order a package but would rather explore Edinburgh than wait in. They'll also send packages back, no fuss.
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Johnsons The Cleaners
12 Elm RowHandy little dry cleaner which doubles up as a DPD parcel shop, ideal if you want to order a package but would rather explore Edinburgh than wait in. They'll also send packages back, no fuss.
Entertainment & Activities
The Omni has a Vue cinema upstairs, and on the ground floor you'll find a range of high street dining options including Tony Macaroni, Slug & Lettuce and Wetherspoons.
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Omni Centre
Greenside RowThe Omni has a Vue cinema upstairs, and on the ground floor you'll find a range of high street dining options including Tony Macaroni, Slug & Lettuce and Wetherspoons.
There's always some improv or stand-up comedy going on at this cute little comedy cafe. I highly recommend trying to catch the Spontaneous Harry Potter or Spontaneous Sherlock shows while you're in Edinburgh: it's a taste of the Fringe without the August crowds.
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Monkey Barrel Comedy
9-12 Blair StThere's always some improv or stand-up comedy going on at this cute little comedy cafe. I highly recommend trying to catch the Spontaneous Harry Potter or Spontaneous Sherlock shows while you're in Edinburgh: it's a taste of the Fringe without the August crowds.
The Stand is an intimate comedy venue that plays host to comedians big and small, famous and up-and-coming. There's a free improv show every Sunday lunch time. Check the line-up to find out what's on: there's always something happening.
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The Stand Comedy Club
5 York PlaceThe Stand is an intimate comedy venue that plays host to comedians big and small, famous and up-and-coming. There's a free improv show every Sunday lunch time. Check the line-up to find out what's on: there's always something happening.
Arts & Culture
A former cinema, this beautiful theatre now plays host to touring West End/Broadway musicals like Saturday Night Fever, Shrek, Wicked and Rocky Horror. It also hosts famous comedians and live extravaganzas such as Strictly Come Dancing.
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Эдинбургский Плейхаус
18-22 Greenside PlA former cinema, this beautiful theatre now plays host to touring West End/Broadway musicals like Saturday Night Fever, Shrek, Wicked and Rocky Horror. It also hosts famous comedians and live extravaganzas such as Strictly Come Dancing.
The National Museum of Scotland has a huge range of interesting and interactive exhibits. It's free to enter, although sometimes there's a small fee to see special exhibits. They have a cloakroom so you can ditch heavy coats and bags while you explore the exhibitions, and there are some beautiful views of the city from the roof deck.
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Национальный музей Шотландии
The National Museum of Scotland has a huge range of interesting and interactive exhibits. It's free to enter, although sometimes there's a small fee to see special exhibits. They have a cloakroom so you can ditch heavy coats and bags while you explore the exhibitions, and there are some beautiful views of the city from the roof deck.
Getting Around
Edinburgh's main train station: from here you can find trains to towns like Linlithgow (visit the palace) and Scottish cities like Glasgow (always nice for a day or two). You can also go further afield, with an express service to and from London. Book 3 months in advance and you can get first class for as little as £50.
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Вокзал Эдинбург Уэйверли
Princes StreetEdinburgh's main train station: from here you can find trains to towns like Linlithgow (visit the palace) and Scottish cities like Glasgow (always nice for a day or two). You can also go further afield, with an express service to and from London. Book 3 months in advance and you can get first class for as little as £50.
The tram to and from Edinburgh Airport terminates here. Interesting places to hop off include Princes Street for high street shopping, Haymarket for the cute shops on the West End and Murrayfield Stadium for the rugby.
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York Place
York PlaceThe tram to and from Edinburgh Airport terminates here. Interesting places to hop off include Princes Street for high street shopping, Haymarket for the cute shops on the West End and Murrayfield Stadium for the rugby.