From the moment Beth (known to Sierra Leoneans as 'Thindo') and Ayo collected me at the Guinea/Sierra Leone border, to the moment they dropped me at Bureh Beach two days later, these guys were the very best hosts you could possibly hope for. Their warmth, ethos and knowledge of the area as well as wider country and its history, will be invaluable to you as a guest, as they can advise you on the next leg of your journey as well as help you get the utmost out of your stay. I'm told Waterloo's not generally a tourist destination but it is absolutely worth visiting if only to stay with Thindo and Ayo. The accommodation overlooks lush green communal plots farmed by local women, and is a delightful, dare I say rather luxurious place to stay. The compound has no walls, barbed wire, guards or gates; you'll meet Thindo and Ayo's friends- young and not so young- who are regular visitors, and have the chance to interact with the community in a way you never could as a tourist passing through or even as a expat or aid worker. I left Ategbeh with a heavy heart that is full of new insights and experiences I imagine will stay with me the rest of my life. As a youngish solo female traveller, Ayo and Thindo were happy to spend time with me. Though they were conscious of not wanting to 'cramp my style' I was supremely grateful for their time and attention! Ategbeh Garden is a must-visit for anyone travelling to or living in Western Area.